It’s all in the family - How local cuisine has been shaped by cultural heritage
Food is more than just sustenance, it’s intertwined with tradition, family, friendship, and connection. For many, gathering around the table for a meal with loved ones or recreating a recipe passed down through generations can inspire a sense of nostalgia. Many factors have influenced the diverse culinary identity of Regina, from recipes passed down by early settlers, to local restaurateurs who have taken the step to open restaurants inspired by their heritage. In this blog post we explore the ways in which food can shape communal and personal identity while also highlighting some of the exceptional local business owners who have shared a piece of their cultural identity through the food service industry.
The emergence of the railway in Canada began to ramp up the Federal Government’s desire to expand agriculture settlement across Canada. The prairie region became an area of concern as it had seen little growth in the way of early agricultural settlement. That was until 1897 when Clifford Sifton was appointed Minister of the Interior. Sifton aimed his efforts towards enticing people from the European heartland to make their way to the prairies. He also successfully opened new areas for homesteading through negotiations with CPR. Immigrants from the Ukraine, Poland, Scandinavia, Finland, Belgium, and France began to arrive to the west. Many Britain’s and North Americans also came in search of cheap land to cultivate. Immigrants were allowed to pick the location of their homestead. However, with limited knowledge related to farming in a prairie environment these decisions were most often made from an emotional rather than functional standpoint. Often many would select land that reminded them in some way of home or that was in close proximity to relatives and friends. The new and often harsh conditions of homesteading in a foreign landscape made for a rocky start. However, small pockets consisting of people with similar backgrounds, religions, and languages slowly began to form across the prairie landscape. For many this sense of community was a way to ward off the loneliness and isolation experienced by those who had made the journey to Canada, leaving behind loved ones in search of prosperity and agricultural success.
By 1900 the wheat boom was beginning and would last some 10-15 years. International demand for wheat helped to grow the agricultural prosperity of the Canadian west. The foreign demand for wheat and flour also made local railways a hub for many as their services were required for the transportation of goods to ports and waterways. The railway was also needed for the importation of farming equipment and other goods. This resulted in prairie townships forming around the railway bringing together the mingling of families, cultures, and identities from across the world. but homesteaders undoubtedly found themselves homesick and struggling to make ends meet. Many leaned on the comforts of home to aid in this trying time, and for many women providing food and a stable home was of utmost importance. Through the passing down of family recipes and the resourcefulness of settlers to adapt recipes in the absence of homeland ingredients many found a sense of comfort as the smell of fresh cooked bread and traditional meals inspired memories of loved ones back home.
Romanian Jewish settlers near Fort Qu'Appelle, c. 1903.
Image courtesy of the Provincial Archives of Saskatchewan.
In the diary entries of one settler woman named Ida Scharf Hopkins, she recalled a painful memory of having to leave her 90-year-old grandmother behind to relocate to Peace River Country with her husband in 1929. As Hopkins said goodbye her grandmother gifted her with a family cookie recipe as a token of her love. Hopkins wrote: “she went into the house and brought out her special cookie recipe, one that she had never shared with anyone and gave it to me. In her Irish Bro[gue] she called them ‘Ruzed cakes.’ This is still one of my prized possessions.” All the memories associated with the cookies and her grandmother are stored in a neatly handed written recipe and in that moment this recipe was transformed into an invaluable keepsake.
Recipes were passed down through generations and between neighbours as an open door (and open table) policy became the norm for neighbours across the prairies. It was not just Europeans making the journey to Canada as well. Japanese and Chinese immigrants also made the journey, primarily acting as labour for the development of the railway, leading to harsh and dangerous conditions. Immigration from all over the world continued in ebbs and flows helping to enhance the diversity of Canadian towns and city.
As towns turned to cities, fostered communities began to arise from the formation of cultural clubs and organizations. In our city The Regina Hungarian Cultural & Social Club first opened in 1922 followed by the Regina Japanese Cultural Club in 1936, the Regina German Club in 1955, Polish Cultural Club of Regina in 1978, The Regina Chinese Canadian Association in 1984, and so many began taking shape around the city. Many of these organizations share a similar foundation of preserving traditions through the teaching of language, dance, and food. Another facet of these organizations is the wonderful food their members and volunteers offer to the city. One example of this is the Regina German Club who offers lunch or catering options. The club offers a menu of traditional delights like Jäger Schnitzel and bratwurst.
In recent years The Regina German Club has partnered with Strudel Meister’s Daughter. The business is owned by Heidi Krobutschekwho produces homemade strudel based on a recipe passed down to her from her father who garnered the nickname of “Strudel Meister.” Born in Czechoslovakia, Gunther Krobutshckeck immigrated to Regina in his youth. A son of a baker himself, Krobutshckeck always had a passion for recreating his family’s signature strudel via a recipe that had been passed down through generations. He began to sell his signature pastries at local farmers markets in 1989. The strudels were a hit with locals and soon Krobutshckeck was able to quit his day job and open a licensed bakery in Gull Lake. Today his daughter carries on the tradition with Strudel Meister’s Daughter, selling strudel at local craft fairs, farmers markets and made to order through her website. When expressing the significance of this family recipe as not only a connection to her heritage but as a precious connection to her father, Heidi puts it best: “I am so very proud to continue on in the footsteps of my Dad by providing delicious homemade strudel, from his father’s original recipe, to those who love it as much as I do.”
Members of the Regina Hungarian Club at the corner of Arcola Street and Victoria Avenue, c. 1930.
Image courtesy of The City of Regina Archives.
The growth of cultural institutions around the city were just some of the ways people could share a piece of their heritage with the city. Local businesses specializing in their respective traditional culinary practices also began to emerge. In 1966 the Italian Star Deli (ISD) opened its doors to the public. Formerly a small confectionery, the building was transformed into a specialty grocer and deli by Frank and Gina Giambattista. The couple had immigrated from Molise, Italy with Frank arriving in Regina in 1957 and Gina in 1958. The desire to open ISD was partly born from the inability to source ingredients needed for authentic Italian cooking in the city. Something as simple as red kidney beans were impossible to locate, along with many other essentials for traditional recipes. Carlo Giambattista, the son of Frank and Gina recalls watching his mother purchase a can of pork and beans, only to drain the liquid and rinse of the beans solely so she could use the beans in the making of a traditional Italian soup. With Frank working a full-time job it was often left to Gina to run the deli with Frank helping whenever he could. Together they put in countless hours to maintain the store. Gina also had the help of her two sons; however, Carlo began working in the deli full time in 1979. Together the family grew the business to offer imported specialties from across the world and introduced their renowned panini sandwiches that are made in house featuring Gina’s homemade marinated spreads.
For many years customers have walked the isles of the original ISD on Victoria Avenue to be welcomed by the smiling face and kind-hearted banter of Carlo, sure to leave with a handful of fresh cheese and meat. In March of 2023 ISD expanded their operation into their current location just adjacent to the original. What began as a humble confectionary at its purchase in 1966 is now a sprawling grocery store, featuring a frozen section packed with premade pizzas, meatballs and calzones all made with Gina’s original recipes. ISD also expanded their kitchen to now offer lunch specials from Chicken Parmesan to polpetta served on a house made bun and of course there is always a sandwich ready to be bought during the lunch rush. Along with this new building came a new generation of Giambattista’s caring for the family business. Today you can most often find Carlos’s son Gino working behind the espresso bar or chatting up customers. For 58 years ISD has developed a reputation for not only supplying excellent products but excellent service too, as every time you leave you feeling like part of their family.
Italian Star Deli’s original location on Victoria Avenue.
Image courtesy of The Italian Star Deli.
In more recent years many restaurateurs have made it their mission to diversify the city’s food scene. A perfect example of this is locally owned Thai restaurant Siam. Siam sits tucked along the store fronts and office buildings that line Hamilton Street. Once inside you are sure to be greeted by Siam’s hospitable staff who seem to be moving at the speed of light, running orders, seating customers, and preparing take-out; all with a smile on their faces. Owners Thutchai and Siritorn Srisodsai originally hail from Bangkok but Siritorn made the move to Regina as an exchange student studying computer science and computer engineering. Later she was joined by Thutchai and the two decided to put down roots in the Queen City. However, something was missing. The couple noticed that Regina did not have an authentic Thai restaurant like anything they had back home in Bangkok. The two looked at this as an opportunity to invest in creating their own, bringing a small slice of Thailand to the queen city. Thutchai took it upon himself to learn as much as he could before opening Siam as he returned to Bangkok for a period where he attended culinary school and worked in several Thai restaurants to gain experience in the industry. With that under his belt the couple opened Siam in 2007. For the past 17 years Siam has been serving traditional Thai food to the Regina citizens. But it was one chance encounter between the owners and a visiting Thai minister of commerce that would start the restaurant on a new path. The visiting minister was so pleased with his meal that he encouraged the couple to apply for Thai select status. This certification comes from the royal Thai government after a restaurant has proven their menu to feature a minimum of 60% authentic Thai food. The restaurant must also demonstrate the use of traditional methods, techniques, and ingredients. In 2018 the restaurant secured Thai Select Status and continues to welcome customers in search of an excellent meal.
Interior of Siam located on
Hamilton Street.
Image courtesy of Siam.
Around the same time as Siam opened its doors, another restaurant diversifying Regina’s culinary scene opened. In 2006 couple Sukhi and Simran Josan opened Flavours of India, serving authentic East Indian food to the public. Simran had experience working in the food industry, but Sukih’s background is in engineering, however both shared a dream to open a family-owned restaurant. With this dream in mind the family recollected from their home in British Columbia to Regina and began working on opening the business. With the opening of the new restaurant and the help of a CTV interview providing advertising, customers were eager to try the menu for themselves. The business has only continued to grow, priding themselves on cooking everything from scratch, never taking shortcuts with authentic recipes and sourcing the high-quality ingredients. The restaurant boasts several years of accolades such as best take out and best Indian food as awarded by the Regina Prairie Dog magazine.
Flavours of India during service.
Image courtesy of Flavours of India.
Although access to culturally diverse food options in the city has seen substantial growth in recent years, there's still a long way to go and unfortunately, cultural diversity hasn't always been celebrated. While discussing the settlement of Canada its important to acknowledge the enormously damaging effects colonization had on all aspects Indigenous culture. In the federal government’s pursuit to colonize Canada Indigenous groups became subjected to years of cohesive and malicious tactics meant to destroy cultural solidarity and take Indigenous occupied land for settlement. The Indian act of 1876, the signing of the numbered treaties over the span of 1871-1921, and countless other political decisions have all played a role in disturbing traditional ways of life including how Indigenous groups prepare traditional food. Previous models of hunting, fishing, and gathering were unable to be practiced. Key principles surrounding Indigenous food practices such as an underlying respect for the land, a desire to only take what is needed was at odds with colonial ideologies. The Potlatch ban enacted in 1885 further reflects the Federal Government's desire to suppress Indigenous culture through the banning of traditional ceremonies and gathering. Residential schools which were enforced by the Canadian government from the 17th Century until the late 1990s saw further destruction of culture with children being separated from family. Thus, losing their previous way of life and further inhibiting the ability to learn from family and community members. The displacement of so many children from their homes further disrupted the dissemination of traditional hunting and food preparation practices along with a host of other cultural teachings.
Today, we are seeing a resurgence in Indigenous folks reclaiming traditional practices around all aspects of culture, this includes food as well. In Regina, you can often find The Bannock House food truck at local events serving up fresh Bannock. You can also find Bannock burgers, pizza, and tacos at The Moose and Bannock restaurant located on Pinkie Road. If you find yourself travelling outside the city, consider stopping for a meal at Wanuskewin Heritage Park’s onsite restaurant. Located on Treaty 6 territory and the homeland of the Métis the land is named in honour of the Indigenous peoples that thrived off the land for some 6000 years before the signing of Treaty 6. After the signing of treaty 6 the Federal Government designated the land to be for settler use only in 1902. In recent years the importance of this land in Indigenous culture has finally been acknowledged with the region securing heritage park status in 1992. Today, the onsite restaurant is headed by chef Jenni Lessard. Chef Jenni and the staff at Wanuskewin pride themselves on sourcing local ingredients, even growing and foraging for ingredients from the space around them. The restaurant services a fusion of traditional Indigenous food with contemporary dishes. They aim to honour the history of the site while looking to create traditions and communities of their own.
Interior of Wanuskewin Heritage Park Restaurant.
Image courtesy of Discover Saskatoon.
Through this whirlwind look into the development of Regina's culinary scene we can start to see the important role that food plays in the development of every city. From recipes shared through generations to the creation of new traditions there is no denying that food unites us. This short list of restaurateurs who pour their heart and culture into each dish is hardly exhaustive! In a city ripe with local classics to hidden gems there is so much to explore. The next time you head out for a bite to eat, are in need of a specific grocery item, or are just in the mood for a sweet treat, consider supporting local.
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